Check out my previous travel post about Belgrade, Serbia here:
From Serbia’s capital, Belgrade, it takes about 3 hours by FlixBus to reach Niš. As the third-largest city in Serbia, Niš feels much more local and laid-back compared to the capital, with a charming and tranquil atmosphere.
I stayed in Niš for 3 days and 2 nights, with one clear goal in mind: to visit the bizarre rock formations of Đavolja Varoš (Devil’s Town) located in the nearby mountains.
The schedule was pretty tight:
- Day 1: Arrive in Niš and explore the city
- Day 2: Day trip to Devil’s Town
- Day 3: Travel to my next destination
Arrival in Niš & City Exploration
As soon as I arrived at the Niš bus terminal, I bought a ticket for the next day's bus to Prolom, the closest town to Devil’s Town and the starting point for the hike. At that moment, everything went smoothly—though I had no idea this would become my “gateway to hell.”
After that, I checked into my hostel, Day 'n' Night Hostel, which was clean, had a kitchen, and overall was a very comfortable place to stay.
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Without wasting any time, I went out to explore the city. The main attractions are in the city center, especially the Niš Fortress. From the Stambol Gate inside the fortress, you can overlook the city and the Nišava River. The view gave me a sense of walking through a castle town in Kyoto.
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At the entrance to the fortress, there was a popcorn stand selling freshly made popcorn for less than 200 yen. It was a peaceful stroll through the fortress grounds, snacking as I went.
The interior of the fortress is also a popular place for locals to relax, with greenery and historic buildings scattered throughout. At night, the area is beautifully lit, and it seems like a magical place to enjoy dinner by the ancient walls.
Back at the hostel, I naturally struck up conversations with fellow travelers. Sharing drinks and stories around the table turned out to be one of the highlights of my stay.
My Brutal Attempt to Reach Devil’s Town
The next morning, I got up early and headed to the bus terminal to catch the ride to Prolom. When I arrived, the town was quiet and quaint, with Orthodox churches and spa hotels dotted around—very much a hidden gem. Most people I saw were local Serbs or Russians; not a single tourist in sight, let alone a Japanese one.
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Now, here’s where the adventure really began. I referred to a few blog posts and TripAdvisor articles for guidance, then asked a local man at a shop about the route to Devil’s Town. He pointed the way, and off I went.
At first, the signs and landmarks matched the instructions, and everything felt reassuring. But once I entered the forest, I completely lost the trail. The blog directions no longer helped, and I ended up deep in the woods, walking along what looked more like an animal path than a hiking trail.
Hours passed, but Devil’s Town never appeared. My strength began to drain, I ran out of water, and at some point, the thought seriously crossed my mind:
"I might actually die out here."
Along the way, I encountered cows, climbed hills, and after 5–6 hours, I was completely lost. I had already bought my return bus ticket to Niš and didn’t want to miss it.
Eventually, I was forced to give up and retrace my steps in desperation. Every part of me wanted to quit, but somehow I made it back to Prolom. I was dehydrated, exhausted, and to be honest, it was the first time on this entire trip I truly felt a brush with death.
Saved by a Local’s Kindness
I barely made it back in time for the last bus and went to the shop where I had spoken with the old man earlier. I told him, "I couldn’t make it after all."
To my surprise, he replied:
"My house is near Niš—I'll give you a ride back by car."
His shop wouldn’t close for another two hours, and in the meantime, he said,
"You must be thirsty, and probably hungry too,"
and offered me some of his food from the store.
He served me what looked like pickled fish, cheese, and some sawdust-like topping (maybe meat floss?) on bread. It was unlike anything I’d ever tasted in Japan, but definitely a memorable experience.
We took a commemorative photo, then drove back toward Niš. On the way, he even stopped at a bakery and bought me bread. I was genuinely touched by the warmth and generosity of this stranger.
That night, after returning to Niš, I said goodbye and gave my heartfelt thanks to him and his wife. I went back to the hostel, chatted briefly with some travelers, took a much-needed shower, and collapsed into bed like a rock.
Tips for Visiting Devil’s Town (Learn from My Mistake)
If you’re planning to visit Devil’s Town, the common route is to get off the bus before Prolom, at Kuršumlija, and take a taxi from there.
Don’t be stingy like me and attempt a reckless hike. 😅
Trust me—it’s not worth the risk!
Off to the Next City
The next morning, I headed back to the terminal, said goodbye to Niš, and made my way to my next destination: Kosovo.
