After leaving Bern, Switzerland, my next destination was Lyon, a city in southeastern France.
You can read about my previous trip to Bern here:
Lyon is one of France’s most important cities after Paris, offering a perfect combination of history, architecture, and food. It is also widely known as the “capital of gastronomy,” making it an especially appealing destination for anyone interested in French cuisine.
The journey from Bern to Lyon took about four hours by long-distance bus. I stayed in Lyon for six nights, spending my time meeting a Chinese friend who was attending a local culinary school, exploring the Old Town, and working from cafés and my hostel.
After arriving at the bus terminal in Lyon, I decided to walk to my hostel.
It is possible to reach the hostel on foot, but it takes about 30 minutes!
I wanted to enjoy the city scenery along the way, so I chose to walk. However, the road became increasingly steep as I approached the hostel, which made the walk fairly challenging while carrying my luggage.
If you have a lot of luggage or do not enjoy walking long distances, taking the metro or a bus would probably be the better option.
I visited Lyon during the Christmas season, and there was a Christmas market directly in front of the bus terminal. At night, the area became crowded with visitors.
The market was lined with illuminated stalls selling food, drinks, and Christmas-themed gifts. Immediately after finishing a long bus journey, I was welcomed by the festive atmosphere of a European winter.
On the way from the bus terminal to my hostel, I walked alongside the Saône River while enjoying views of Lyon’s Old Town on the opposite bank.
Staying at The People Lyon Hostel
The hostel I stayed at was The People Lyon Hostel, located in Lyon’s 1st arrondissement.
View on Google Maps
The hostel is located on a slope leading up to the Croix-Rousse hill. My six-night stay cost a total of €142.
On the ground floor, there is a shared dining area and restaurant where guests can purchase breakfast for an additional fee. Breakfast is served buffet-style, with bread, drinks, fruit, cereal, and other simple options.
I also saw quite a few people working on their laptops in the shared space. It is a convenient environment for travelers who need to get some work done or for digital nomads staying in Lyon.
However, the Wi-Fi felt slightly weak during my stay. It was good enough for general web browsing and writing, but I found it a little unreliable for online meetings.
There was also a shared kitchen on the second floor where guests could cook their own meals, which was extremely helpful.
Exploring Lyon’s Old Town and Fourvière Hill
Meeting My Friend at the Funicular Station in the Old Town
On the day I explored the city with my friend, we met in the morning at the funicular station in Lyon’s Old Town.
View on Google Maps
You can travel up Fourvière Hill by taking the funicular from Vieux Lyon station.
My friend, who had been living in Lyon for a long time, helped me buy a ticket from one of the ticket machines at the station.
As far as I remember, there were both one-way and return tickets available, and I believe we bought one-way tickets.
Since we walked back down to the Old Town afterward, a one-way ticket was enough. I recommend taking the funicular up the hill and then walking back down while exploring the Roman ruins and surrounding streets.
Basilica of Notre-Dame de Fourvière
As soon as you reach the top of the hill by funicular, you will see the Basilica of Notre-Dame de Fourvière.
Its official name is the Basilica of Notre-Dame de Fourvière. It is one of Lyon’s most recognizable landmarks and is dedicated to the Virgin Mary.
Once I stepped inside, I was surprised by how large the interior was.
The walls and ceilings are covered in intricate decorations, while the mosaics and stained-glass windows are also beautiful. The interior is just as impressive as the exterior.
View on Google Maps
Panoramic Views of Lyon from Fourvière Hill
Next to the basilica is a viewpoint overlooking the entire city of Lyon.
Under normal conditions, you can see the Old Town, the Saône River, the Rhône River, and the city stretching into the distance. Unfortunately, the fog was extremely thick that morning, so I could not see much of the city.
Experiencing Ancient Roman Lyon at the Gallo-Roman Ruins
After visiting the basilica, we walked to the nearby Gallo-Roman ruins.
View on Google Maps
Officially known as the Ancient Theatre of Fourvière, the site contains theatres built during the Roman period thousands of years ago. Seeing such ancient structures preserved in the middle of a modern city felt quite surreal.
The site is apparently still used today for outdoor events, including concerts and stage performances.
Discovering Lyon’s Street Art While Walking Down the Hill
Mosaic Characters Hidden on the City’s Walls
After visiting the Gallo-Roman ruins, we walked downhill toward the Old Town.
Along the way, I occasionally spotted small mosaic characters attached to the walls of buildings.
These works were created by the French street artist Invader. You can photograph them using the official FlashInvaders app and add them to your digital collection.
Giant Murals That Look Like Real Buildings
In addition to Invader’s mosaics, Lyon has many other works of art painted on the sides of buildings.
Some of the most memorable are enormous trompe-l’œil murals depicting windows, people, and architectural scenes in three-dimensional detail. From a distance, it can be difficult to tell where the real building ends and the painting begins.
You can find the location of the mural shown above on the map below.
View on Google Maps
Exploring Lyon’s Compact and Walkable Old Town
Lyon’s Old Town felt more compact than I had expected.
The cobblestone streets are lined with historic buildings, restaurants, cafés, bakeries, and small shops. Simply walking through the narrow streets gives you a sense of the medieval and Renaissance atmosphere of Europe.
Buying a Lyon Specialty at Boulangerie du Palais
While exploring the Old Town, I stopped at a bakery called Boulangerie du Palais.
I bought a baked pastry that looked a little like a cookie.
View on Google Maps
The bright pink ingredient is known as praline rose, a sweet made by coating almonds or hazelnuts in sugar. In Lyon, it is often mixed into breads, cookies, and other baked goods, giving them a colorful and eye-catching appearance.
Apparently, the exact reason why these pralines became such a vivid shade of pink remains something of a mystery.
Enjoying French Cuisine in Lyon, the Capital of Gastronomy
Lyon is often called the “capital of gastronomy.”
The surrounding regions provide the city with a wide variety of ingredients, including meat, vegetables, cheese, and wine. This abundance of produce helped traditional Lyonnaise cuisine and the wider culture of French cooking develop in the city.
Here is a quick explanation of two terms you may see when searching for restaurants in France: bouchon and brasserie. A brasserie generally feels more like a casual, lively restaurant and may be easier to visit without much planning.
| Bouchon | Brasserie | |
|---|---|---|
| Main region | Lyon | Throughout France |
| Cuisine | Traditional Lyonnaise dishes | A wide range of classic French dishes |
| Atmosphere | Small, homely, and rustic | Larger, livelier, and more casual |
| Typical dishes | Sausages, offal dishes, quenelles, and other Lyon specialties | Steak, fish, choucroute, and other French classics |
| Original meaning | Part of Lyon’s traditional dining culture | Originally a brewery or an establishment serving beer |
Foie gras is one dish I particularly recommend trying as a memorable part of a trip to Lyon.
Enjoying a Set Menu and Foie Gras at L’Institut Restaurant
The first restaurant I visited was L’Institut Restaurant.
View on Google Maps
I went there as the guest of a friend who was attending a local culinary school. Unfortunately, the restaurant is currently listed as temporarily closed, which was a little disappointing to discover.
We ordered a set menu, which cost around €80 per person with a discount for people connected to the school. My friend made the reservation through the school in advance.
I ate foie gras with white wine and took my time appreciating every bite of the luxurious meal!
I recommend dressing appropriately and definitely going with someone rather than dining there alone.
Brasserie Georges: A Historic Brasserie Founded in 1836
Another restaurant I visited was Brasserie Georges.
View on Google Maps
Founded in 1836, it is one of Lyon’s best-known historic brasseries.
When I visited, I was able to order a set menu for around €26. Considering that it was a full-course meal at a long-established French restaurant, it felt relatively affordable.
We arrived at around 6:00 p.m. and were able to enter without much of a wait. If you do not have a reservation, I recommend arriving early.
Brasserie Georges also has its own brewery and is well known for its beer. If you plan to order alcohol, trying one of the beers with your meal is highly recommended.
Walking a Little Farther to Parc de la Tête d’Or
During my stay, I also explored areas beyond the Old Town and walked to places slightly farther from the city center.
One of the places I visited was Parc de la Tête d’Or, a large public park in Lyon.
Visiting Lyon Zoo for Free
Inside Parc de la Tête d’Or is Lyon Zoo, which is free to enter.
View on Google Maps
The zoo is surrounded by greenery and is home to a variety of animals. There are also areas where visitors can see reptiles and plants.
Since you can enjoy not only the zoo but also a relaxing walk around the entire park, it is a good place to visit if you are staying in Lyon for several days and would like to spend some time in nature.
Final Thoughts: Lyon Offers Both Sightseeing and Everyday Experiences
I had meals with my friend, worked from the hostel, bought groceries and cooked for myself, and sometimes simply walked along the river without making any plans.
Those ordinary moments were also an important part of enjoying Lyon.
For anyone who wants to experience a beautiful Old Town and French cuisine while traveling at a slightly slower pace, Lyon is a highly recommended destination.
After saying goodbye to my friend, my next destination was Marseille, a port city in southern France 🇫🇷.
My journey continued to a city with a completely different atmosphere from Lyon.
