Getting from Bucharest to Moldova’s capital, Chișinău, took about nine hours by long-distance bus. At first, I thought, “That’s way too long!” But in the end, watching the scenery roll by and settling into the slow rhythm of travel turned out to be part of the charm.
Staying at Ay Deniz Hostel
For this trip, I stayed at Ay Deniz Hostel. One week cost me just about ¥8,400 – a real bargain.
That said, the hostel wasn’t very well equipped for remote work, so I treated it purely as a “place to sleep” and spent most of my time working from a coworking space instead.
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The highlight? Two friendly cats that greeted me every time I came back. Those little moments of comfort made all the difference on the road.
Coworking at Totem Coworking
The real MVP of my stay was Totem Coworking.
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- Open 24/7
- Online booking → QR code entry
- Located on the 4th floor (look for the coffee shop on the ground floor; the entrance is right next door)
The entrance is a bit tricky to spot, but once inside, the space is bright, comfortable, and perfect for long work sessions.
First Impressions of Chișinău
Tourists are few and far between. At times, I felt like the only Asian person in the entire city, but locals, while curious, were warm and welcoming.
Before arriving, I’d heard Moldova described as “Europe’s poorest country” and assumed prices would be extremely cheap. Surprisingly, groceries and daily necessities were often the same price as Japan – sometimes even higher. Anyone coming purely to save money might be in for a surprise.
Buses run throughout the city, but they’re cash only (6 lei per ride), so keep coins handy.
Favorite Café: Coffee Monkey
During my week in Chișinău, I visited Coffee Monkey twice. Their cold brew was excellent – the perfect fuel before a day of work.
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Weekend Bazaar & Nostalgic Atmosphere
On weekends, a lively bazaar pops up in front of Chișinău’s main station. Handmade goods, local snacks, and a nostalgic old-world atmosphere made it worth strolling through, even without buying anything.
Moldova = Wine! A Trip to Cricova
Of course, Moldova is famous for wine. I booked a Cricova winery tour through Get Your Guide (about ¥20,000), which included:
- The scenic Curchi Monastery
- The underground Cave Monastery
- A local restaurant lunch
- Wine tasting at Cricova Winery
The group was small – just five people – with an English-speaking guide. If your English is limited it might feel a bit challenging, but the intimate size made it easy to ask questions and soak up the experience.
At Cricova, I sampled several wines and, before I knew it, was pleasantly tipsy. The wines were so good that it was hard not to bring a few bottles home.
Traditional Moldovan Dishes
The tour also introduced me to local cuisine:
- Colțunași – dumplings similar to Polish pierogi
- Pârjoale – herbed meat patties
Both were simple, hearty, and delicious.
Another fascinating detail: many Moldovans keep home cellars stocked with jars of pickled vegetables and preserves. This glimpse into their self-sufficient lifestyle left a lasting impression.
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Nightlife in Chișinău
One evening, I met an Italian traveler, and together we grabbed spritz cocktails at Caffè Delle Colonne before heading to a local club packed with young Moldovans.
The vibe? Loud music, flowing drinks, and lots of energy. Chișinău’s nightlife turned out to be much hotter than I expected.
Wine Festival Fun
By chance, my stay overlapped with Chișinău’s Wine Festival, held on the grounds of the National Museum of Fine Arts. Dozens of wineries set up booths, and visitors could wander from stand to stand sampling their vintages. The atmosphere was festive and full of life – a true celebration of Moldova’s wine culture.
Getting to the Airport
To reach Chișinău International Airport, hop on Bus #30. The ride takes about 30–40 minutes.
Important notes:
- Cash only (6 lei for a ticket)
- Each large suitcase costs an extra 6 lei
If you’re carrying big luggage, the total adds up quickly, so keep coins ready.
Final Thoughts
My week in Chișinău was a memorable mix of coworking, wine, and warm human connections. It may not be a polished tourist hotspot yet, but that’s exactly what makes it special. Between the welcoming locals, rich wine culture, and laid-back atmosphere, Chișinău left me with experiences I’ll treasure for a long time.
